Tablecloth Sizes

Washing Instructions

Ironing?

Napkin Folding

Colour Coordinating

Tablecloth Sizes
When choosing the size, first you must measure your table exactly. As the cloths are made in standard sizes, you cannot decide how much you would like as a drop, you must go with the size that gives you the most even balance. 10" to 12" is considered perfect for an embroidered tablecloth (t/c), however, this does not work for everyone. When in doubt, feel free to e-mail us with your measurements, and we will make sure you choose the right one.

Very important to remember is the fact that embroidered t/c's almost never measure what they say. They usually run 4" to 6" shorter due to the final washing. For example: if the size is 72"x90", the true size may be 68"x 84". The exception here is crochet lace, which almost always runs true to size. Again, if there is a particular cloth that you are interested in, but are not sure, e-mail us and we will measure it exactly.
Note: This is also true for all the embroidered linens on this web site. Sizes given are "cut cloth sizes", before they are embroidered and washed. Their final size/shrinkage will depend on the work and the type of material. Factories use standard sizes as guidelines only.

-Rectangular (Oblong) Tablecloths
Standard sizes are 54"x72", 72"x90", 72"x108", 72"x126", 72x144", 72"x162" & 72"x180". The last 2 sizes are harder to come by and are usually quite formal. If we don't have it, we'll put you on a waiting list.

-Oval Tablecloths (rounded corners)
We rarely see 54"x72" in oval, but please remember that rectangular t/c's are lovely on an oval table of any size. This especially works if your table is an odd size. The corners help balance the difference in overhang from the sides to the ends. Example: if you have a 12" drop (overhang) on the sides, and only 8" at the ends (head & foot), the corners offset this and balance the whole look.

-Round Tablecloths
You can use the smaller rounds, 36", 45" & 54" as table toppers, or on a small side table. There is never as large a selection here as with the squares. However, a square is right at home on a round table, or caddy corner (each corner pointing to each side/end) on an oval dining table. Example: when I had my 42" round table, I either used 72" round tablecloths or 54" square. I also put one on top of the other. The largest selection is in 72" with some 90". Wait-list for 108", but don't count on anything bigger.

-Square Tablecloths
Tea Cloths with tea napkins, table toppers & dining squares. The small ones are the most versatile cloths. This week you might have it topping your dining room table, and next week it's adorning your coffee table or under a lamp on your side table. The smaller squares are very popular for bridge tables. Standard sizes are 36", 45", 54" & 72". Occassionaly we can find larger, so if this is what you're looking for, we'll wait-list you.

-Crocheted Lace
As I said before, crocheted lace usually runs true to size. What we can also offer is made to order tablecloths and bedspreads. Give us the size that you want, and a couple of months, and you will have it.
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Washing Instructions
Natural fabrics such as linen and cotton should be washed, rather than dry-cleaned, in our opinion. They also need fresh air whenever possible. Everything we sell is machine washable, gentle cycle preferred. If a clothes line is not avaiable, put it over a towel on your shower rod, or gentle cycle in the dryer is perfectly alright (do not overdry). Should overdrying occur, wet again, pull out, spin dry in the washer, and dry again.

For heavily soiled tablecloths, placemats and napkins, the best thing to do is soak immediately in cold water, and leave overnight. Our favourite detergent is liquid Tide with alternative bleach®. However, there are some stains that we find require Clorox®. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup to soak. This is never recommended, but it's better than having an unusable piece of linen.

Other cleaners we find work remarkably well are, liquid rust removers (for tomato stains), 'Oops'® (for lipstick, children's crayons and grease), and Clorox 2® (for colours).
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Ironing?
Maybe you do, maybe you don't. If you do, starch is absolutely essential.

-Kim thinks the ultimate is cooked Argo® starch, but you must be dedicated, and have the time and energy. The results are incredible. Mix the starch, rinse the linens in the mixture and hang to dry, according to package directions. Do not use a clothes dryer. To iron, sprinkle dry linen with water to dampen, roll and set aside for at least an hour, and iron on hottest setting to dry. NB: Do not attempt to iron damp from the clothesline or the starch will be sticky. It must dry and be dampened afterwards. NB: If you are unable to iron within a couple of hours, linens may be stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator, for a day.

-Cathy's favourite is spray starch. With 2 young children, the above method is out of the question. Very simply, spray and iron on hottest setting and full steam. Niagara Spray Starch®, regular or heavy, has proven to be the best for us.

-Freda, their mother, pre-sprays with Niagara®, rolls the linen and irons later. This is the next best thing to Argo®, and Freda doesn't like her linens as stiff as Kim does. NB: All 3 agree that "Sizing" does not give enough body to linen or cotton.

-Get the dry-cleaners to press your linens for you!

Extra Tips
1. Buy the heaviest, hottest iron with the most steam. We like the top of the line models in Black & Decker®, Norelco® & Sunbeam®.
2. Your ironing board should be sturdy and very well padded.
3. Cutwork, lace and embroidered linens iron beautifully upside-down on a thick bath towel. Then turn over to touch-up.
4. Put your ironing board at the end of the table for larger t/c's, and slide on as you go. Or setup at a second story balcony.
5. Iron sideways to avoid snagging the point of the iron into lace or cutwork.
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Napkin Folding
No-one does it better than Helmut S at The Waiters Digest. Link back to The House of Linens in his Shop 'nd Savor section.
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Colour Coordinating
After 20 years, we still find that most people want to match their table linens to their room. This should only be the case if you are using them for show. If you are eating at the table, your linens should match your dishes, number 1. If you are worried about this, tell us the pattern of your dishes, colours in your room, and if there is a particular tablecloth/luncheon set you are interested in. Send us a picture if you can.

Another thing that most people question, is what colour background of tablecloth, for what colour background of dishes. Rules of thumb that work 9 times out of 10 are: white bone china on ecru or white, cotton or linen tablecloth. (you may be surprised how well white looks on ecru, especially if the china has gold in it). Cream bone china is better on ecru. White porcelain on white polyester/cotton tablecloth. They both usually have that greyish hue. If the china doesn't, then it will work on cotton and linen.

You can use ecru and white doilies in the same room. Believe me, it works. We've had several Linen Tea Parties at our mother's house, and everyone has noticed and commented on this. She has a very large living/dining area, and many side tables, a coffee table, sideboard, and chest of drawers. Not only do some have white doilies and some ecru doilies, they are of different designs. This goes for your bedroom as well. All of your dresser scarves do not have to match, and they don't have to fit exactly. It is so much more intesting to the viewer, to see the different colours and patterns.

Using our mother again, as an example, and getting back to the dishes, she uses a multi coloured cross-stitch tablecloth (reds, blues, greens, yellows), with her very busy, multi coloured china. Now her room is more rust, but it doesn't matter because the table looks fabulous. Another thing to point out here is that, if you have a busy china, you don't have to have a plain tablecloth. The multi coloured tablecloths were designed to pick out the colours in the dishes.

If I've missed anything and you have questions, please don't hesitate, e-mail us.
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Last modified on Wednesday, December 29, 2004